Desolation wilderness
By Dale Conour
The winds came to Desolation Wilderness with the evening.
My wife Kendra and I had backpacked 6 miles up to Fontanillis Lake from Bayview Campground, perched above Lake Tahoe’s Emerald Bay, occasionally feeling the effects of the 8,000-foot elevation as we labored up switchbacks. But despite a late start (surprise, Bayview’s a dry campground!), we made camp early enough to be done with dinner before dark. Which turned out to be a very good thing.
The lake is special for my wife. It was a regular family getaway, the place the ashes of her grandmother are buried (don’t tell the forest service), and we sat for a while in her childhood escape: hidden by a giant boulder, a flat rock juts low over the water. It’s just the right size for a young girl to sit back and read her book, in a world all her own. Or two adults to sit side by side and share the memories, keeping all her life alive.
When the sun left the lake, brushing the peaks with orange, and the evening star blinked on, the wind
stopped settling for an occasional puff and began to blow in earnest. It bowed the trees, it sent ripples down the lake, creating patterns like giant feathers.
The wind soon chased us into our new tent, chosen for its large mesh doors and generous rainfly vestibules, not for its potential protection from windstorms. We spent a night besieged. “It’s like there’s a demon out there,” my wife offered from under the Capilene top on her face, worn like a shroud to protect against the dust billowing in from under the rainfly. And it was like something malevolent had found us in our little site above the lake, howling and shaking our tent in its fury.
But during the night, I peeked out to the stars above, burning brightly in the dark mountain sky, and felt the wind blow hard across my face.
And I lay back down, vibrating,
understanding why John Muir climbed a tree to witness a storm,
feeling the fierceness of it all,
the pure determination of the life in my heart,
and realizing how, together, unified,
everything rails against the darkness.
Let’s stay in touch.





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